Balancing Risk and Reward: Navigating the Perils of High-Altitude Mountaineering
In this week’s episode of the Fearless Forward podcast, we journey with Joss Thompson - a mechanical engineer, seasoned mountaineer, and expert snowboarder - through his expedition to climb Denali, North America’s highest peak.
This is more than a tale of adventure; it’s a masterclass in preparation, resilience, and the nuanced art of pushing human limits.
Joss shares his early mistakes with acclimatisation, his preparation alongside friend Todd Ainsworth, and the logistics of the unguided climb. He recounts standout moments, such as participating in a dramatic high-altitude rescue of two stricken climbers, observing a fatal avalanche, reaching the summit in -50°C conditions, and snowboarding part of the descent.
Whether you’re an aspiring mountaineer, an outdoor enthusiast, or someone seeking inspiration for tackling your own “summits,” Joss’s story is full of wise advice and actionable tips.
Here are my top three:
Understand and respect altitude
It’s easy to underestimate how quickly altitude can become dangerous - even on smaller mountains. It’s essential to acclimatise properly.
Joss’s tips:
Educate yourself on altitude sickness: Know the early symptoms - dizziness, nausea, headaches, and hallucinations - and treatments.
Plan for gradual ascent: Never gain more than 300-500m sleeping elevation per day above 3,000m. Joss and his partner followed a “climb high, sleep low” strategy, caching gear and returning to lower camps before moving up.
Build in rest days: Allow your body time to adapt, even if you feel strong.
Monitor your health: Use pulse oximeters, keep a symptom diary, and communicate openly with your team.
Prepare physically and mentally
Physical fitness is crucial, but it’s only part of the equation. Technical skills, mental resilience, and teamwork are equally important.
Joss’s tips:
Train for endurance: Train in similar environments and weather, with full gear, to simulate expedition conditions.
Develop a pre-expedition proficiency checklist: Get comfortable with crampons, ice axes, rope work, and self-arrest techniques.
Manage nutrition and weight loss: Plan for high-calorie, easy-to-prepare meals. Expect appetite loss at altitude, and a 4-5kg weight loss overall.
Beware imposter syndrome: Even experienced climbers feel doubt. Focus on your own performance and growth, not comparisons.
Savour success; learn from failure
The summit is a moment, but the journey is what endures: the joyful highs; the lows of doubt and fear; and the unexpected twists and turns.
Joss’s tips:
Ask yourself: What went well? And what would you do differently next time?
Share your learning: Inspire and educate others by being open open and honest about your experience.
Evolve: Use each experience - good and bad - as a stepping stone for future growth.
Join me in listening to Joss’s story here.
With love from the mountain,
Sally-Anne
Respect!